In a recent statement, the Italian luxury fashion label Prada has come under fire for allegedly appropriating elements of Indian culture in its latest footwear collection. The controversy erupted when sandals showcased at Milan Fashion Week bore a striking resemblance to traditional Kolhapuri sandals, a handcrafted style originating from the Indian states of Maharashtra and Karnataka.
Initially, Prada described the sandals merely as "leather footwear," neglecting to mention their Indian roots. This omission led to accusations of cultural appropriation among Indian artisans and audiences. In response, Prada clarified its position, acknowledging that the design was indeed inspired by traditional footwear. The brand stated its commitment to celebrating craftsmanship and heritage, revealing that it had reached out to the Maharashtra Chamber of Commerce, Industry & Agriculture regarding the issue.
Lorenzo Bertelli, Prada's head of Corporate Social Responsibility, responded to criticism from local trade organizations that claimed the design was commercialized without credit to the artisans who preserve this heritage. Bertelli conveyed that the brand was still in the early design stages and expressed an openness to initiating discussions for collaboration with local artisans.
Kolhapuri sandals, which date back to the 12th Century, are known for their durability and are well-suited to India’s climate. Awarded Geographical Indication (GI) status by the Indian government in 2019, these traditional sandals symbolize authenticity linked to their provenance.
Artisans in Kolhapur have voiced feelings of dismay over the use of their cultural symbols without recognition. Prabha Satpute, a local artisan, emphasized the importance of honoring the labor that goes into creating these sandals, urging, "Don't take advantage of others' labor." The high price point of Prada's sandals has also drawn ire, as local artisans earn meager sums for similar handmade products.
This incident is one among many wherein international brands have faced scrutiny for failing to acknowledge the roots of Indian cultural elements. Previous accusations involved Gucci mislabeling a sari as a gown and TikTok trends misrepresenting traditional attire.
However, some artisans express a sense of pride amidst the controversy, appreciating the attention their craft has received. Businessman Dileep More remarked that the recognition from a global brand affirms the value of their work.
