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Specialty Coffee Takes Root in Small-Town India

A new wave of specialty coffee culture is emerging in northern India, shifting societal norms from tea to coffee.

Source: bbc.co.uk2 min read
Specialty Coffee Takes Root in Small-Town India
Image via bbc.co.uk

In brief

Amid the longstanding tea culture in north India, there’s a rising trend towards specialty coffee, driven by young entrepreneurs keen on redefining local preferences and consumer experiences.

In a surprising turn of events for traditionally tea-loving northern India, specialty coffee is gaining popularity among the region's youth. Jalandhar resident Harmanpreet Singh left his family's bakery in 2021 to tap into this emerging trend, motivated by a growing demand for speciality coffee amid the backdrop of the Covid-19 pandemic. Understanding the rapid shift in consumer preferences, Singh sought training in Bengaluru to perfect his coffee brewing skills. After three months of study, he proudly launched Buland Café in Jalandhar, which has now expanded to 40 outlets and become a hotspot for students and young professionals seeking a cozy space to work or unwind over artisanal coffee.With beans sourced from the renowned coffee estates of Karnataka, Singh emphasizes the importance of customer engagement and education in delivering the best coffee experience. "It's not just about brewing a good cup of coffee but connecting with customers on a deeper level," he notes.This growing trend is not isolated to Jalandhar; coffee culture is branching out into various tier-two cities as remote working becomes more common. As a result, café owners report a significant increase in demand for specialty coffee, with consumers willing to pay extra for premium quality and customized blends. Bharat Singhal, founder of Billi Hu roasteries, points out that clients are becoming increasingly knowledgeable about coffee origins and roasting techniques.Recent data highlights that coffee consumption in India is on the rise, with a 2023 report indicating that over 44% of the population now drinks coffee, fueled by interest in specialty options across smaller cities. Subscription orders for coffee have surged by 50% in a year, and customers are moving towards more sophisticated brewing methods like pour-over and espresso.Historically, India has a rich coffee-drinking tradition dating back to the 1900s, when the first Indian Coffee Houses opened. These establishments were influential spaces for thinkers and activists, serving as venues for political discourse. The modern café landscape shifted significantly in the 1990s with economic reforms leading to a boom in private coffee outlets catering to a younger demographic.The arrival of international coffee brands, including Starbucks in 2012, acted as a catalyst for homegrown specialty coffee brands, pushing the boundaries of India’s coffee culture. Small-town entrepreneurs like Nishant Sinha from Lucknow and Jatin Khurana from Ludhiana are also embracing this coffee renaissance, creating trendy spaces filled with unique blends and local flavors designed to capture traditional tastes.However, as the sector grows, challenges emerge for small coffee shop owners, particularly concerning quality and profitability. Inexperienced staff and substandard equipment can compromise the coffee experience, leading to difficult market conditions. Entrepreneurs like Neha Das and Nishant Ashish, who founded The Eden’s café in Ranchi, exemplify perseverance in the face of these challenges, focusing on long-term dedication and customer understanding over immediate profits.As coffee culture continues to expand in small towns across India, it signifies a deeper shift in consumer preferences, indicating a potential new chapter in the nation's culinary identity.

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