Empty Line

As India's largest exporter of human hair, the nation's hidden economy is thriving, turning what many see as waste into a premium product. For ten years, drag artist Zeeshan Ali has been at the forefront of this transformation, using his collection of 45 wigs to embody vibrant characters that captivate audiences across the country. “Each wig is an altar of identity, enabling me to transition into exaggerated personas," he explains, revealing his passion for performance.

“In the past, sourcing wigs was a significant hurdle,” Ali reflects, reminiscing about his start in the industry. “Now, it’s not only about drag. Women from all walks of life are incorporating wigs into their daily style.”

The demand for Indian hair—accounting for 85% of the global market—has resulted in a bustling industry filled with collectors. Kolachi Venkatesh, a seasoned hair collector from Chennai, reveals the value embedded in what many dismiss as waste. “It’s just thrown away but it's gold,” he states, recognizing the potential within discarded strands typically sourced from households and salons.

Though Venkatesh's pickers can gather significant amounts of hair daily, they earn a meager income, ranging from just over half a dollar to approximately six dollars. “Our earnings are disproportionately low compared to the billion-dollar market we contribute to,” he adds, emphasizing the control intermediaries have over pricing.

The bulk of collected Indian hair is processed in China's expansive wig-making factories, valued at five to six billion dollars. As Benjamin Cherian from industry group Plexconcil indicates, India must revamp its approach if it hopes to secure its share of this lucrative sector. “Unlike China, where innovation thrives, India needs to invest in advanced sorting systems and treatment procedures,” he explains.

Enter Diva Divine Hair, a Delhi-based venture co-founded by Nidhi Tiwari. Since 2009, the brand has aimed to provide high-quality hair solutions amidst changing societal perspectives. Tiwari notes a distinct shift: “Once taboo, wigs are now regarded as viable options for women facing hair loss."

Furthermore, modern technologies—3D-printed wigs and digital color-matching—have emerged, allowing for a personalized wig experience that enhances comfort and style.

Paul-George Cherion, heading up Raj Hair International, focuses on ethical practices, especially for Temple hair, which is revered in Hindu culture. “Our mission is simple; we aim to upgrade technology and waste as little as possible,” he states, while noting the premium prices these high-value products fetch.

As demand for Indian hair continues to soar, Ali calls for innovation in design. “I envision wigs that command attention,” he muses, endorsing a further integration of cultural heritage within modern aesthetics. The Indian hair industry may well be on the precipice of a renaissance, steering the narrative of discarded materials towards a celebration of identity, creativity, and empowerment.