In the vibrant world of drag, where self-expression reigns supreme, wigs hold significant meaning for artists like Zeeshan Ali. After a decade of entertaining across India, Ali has built a wardrobe of 45 wigs that embody his transformation into lavish characters on stage. “Each wig is an altar of identity,” he explains, reflecting on how the right piece allows him to embrace authenticity and command attention.
Historically, acquiring wigs in India presented challenges. “Back then, I had to rely on international sources or create my own using wool and other materials," Ali recalls. However, with shifting cultural perceptions, wigs are no longer confined to drag performances or cinema; they are increasingly seen as fashionable statements embraced by women from all walks of life.
India is the world’s largest exporter of human hair, supplying a staggering 85% of global needs. Central to this intricate trade is Kolachi Venkatesh from Chennai, who has dedicated 20 years to collecting hair from various sources—households, salons, and barbershops. “What many throw away is gold,” Venkatesh notes, emphasizing the potential of even the most overlooked locks.
Despite the burgeoning market, hair pickers earn meager wages, often less than minimum standards, as they collect between 1 to 5 kilograms daily, selling their finds for just a few cents per kilogram. Through his 50 pickers, Venkatesh supplies local traders who, in turn, send hair to China, where it is transformed into high-demand wigs. “The Chinese wig industry is huge, valued at five to six billion dollars,” shares industry advocate Benjamin Cherian. To capture a greater slice of this lucrative market, India’s infrastructure must evolve significantly, he argues.
Presently, Delhi-based Diva Divine Hair is breaking barriers by creating quality wigs and extensions, responding to the rising concern of hair loss among Indian women. Co-founder Nidhi Tiwari highlights a growing acceptance of once-taboo topics surrounding wigs, attributing it to changing social norms.
With advancements such as 3D-printed wigs, digital color matching, and improved comfort technologies, the industry is rapidly adapting. George Cherion of Raj Hair International reveals that the finest quality comes from Hindu temples, where hair is offered in a sacred act—a supply that adds unique value to the market.
Still, Ali calls for more innovation: "We need accessible, affordable wigs that create a wow factor," he advocates. As India’s hair market continues to evolve, the delicate balance of honoring traditions while embracing modern demands becomes key in revitalizing this golden industry.
