In July, Anastasia Samsonova, a 33-year-old human resources worker, embarked on a unique journey to the Wonsan Kalma Coastal Tourist Zone in North Korea—an area largely closed to outsiders until recently. Her experience offers insights into a country steeped in secrecy and strict regulations, laying bare the paradox of enjoying pristine beaches amidst heavy security restrictions.
The Wonsan Kalma Coastal Resort, inaugurated on July 1, has become a focal point of North Korea's ambitions to boost tourism, drawing comparisons to Spain's Benidorm. However, this venture has commenced under a cloud of scrutiny, particularly around how it contrasts with the daily lives of ordinary North Koreans. Presently, only Russian tourists, organized through accredited travel agencies, have been permitted to visit.
Anastasia traveled with a group of 14, where strict guidelines controlled their movements and interactions. Tour guides and guards accompanied them constantly, ensuring that tourists did not stray from the official itinerary and remained removed from local interactions. This arrangement was ostensibly to prevent any potential embarrassment for both tourists and locals due to the prolonged isolation of North Korea.
Despite the strictures, Anastasia found solace in the near-empty beaches, remarking on their immaculately maintained state. She appreciated the gentle entrance into the sea and the cleanliness of the facilities, branding it a "good beach" experience.
Food offerings during her stay included various meats and local dishes, complemented by affordable drinks. However, simultaneous comments from another tourist described the resort ambiance as "very raw," indicating it diverges significantly from traditional vacation standards.
While tourism to North Korea remains limited, recent changes have seen a slight increase in Russian visitors, although reports indicate that even visitors from China faced restrictions when attempting to access the resort. Experts suggest that the North Korean government carefully regulates foreign tourists to prevent unfavorable comparisons between their lives and that of the foreigners.
The future of international tourism in North Korea remains uncertain, with North Korean authorities themselves reportedly limiting tourist admission from potential markets. Human rights advocates have expressed concerns regarding the treatment of workers involved in constructing the resort.
For those like Anastasia, who are open to exploring the unconventional, the prospect of a return visit looms large. "We're actually thinking about gathering the whole group next year to go to the same place," she shared enthusiastically, reflecting the curious nature of travel in such a tightly controlled regime.
