Damar, one of the best surf guides on the Indonesian island of Lombok, feels right at home taking tourists out to sea. With his fluent English and effortless banter, you would never guess what was his childhood fear: foreigners. When I was 10 or maybe seven, I used to cry - I used to just pee in my pants when I saw white people, Damar, now 39, tells the BBC. That diffidence waned as the laidback island he calls home slowly found its popularity among Western travellers. Just east of Bali, Lombok boasts the same azure beaches and stunning views as its famous neighbor, but without the exasperating crowds. Lombok's beaches are still a hidden gem among surfers, as is Mount Rinjani for hikers.
So it should come as little surprise that the Indonesian government has sensed the opportunity to create another lucrative tourist haven on the sprawling archipelago. The mission is to create more Balis - and Lombok will be one of them. For islanders, this promise of Balification is a welcome opportunity but they are also wary of what it brings. The change has already begun to hit home in more ways than one.
Mandalika in the south has been chosen as the heart of the new Bali. Its rustic coastline has already given way to glitzy resorts, cafes, and even a racetrack. Earlier this month, nearly 150,000 spectators showed up to watch the motorcycle Grand Prix. However, this transformation comes with significant costs. Between 2019 and 2021, dozens of families were evicted from their village homes for the construction of the Mandalika circuit. Damar's family was among them.
I was angry, but I cannot do much. I cannot fight against the government, he recalls. Many locals share this sentiment as they weigh the potential economic benefits against the loss of cultural heritage and community ties.
Authorities have invested heavily in Lombok’s infrastructure, but this has also led to conflicts over land rights and exacerbated tensions between the residents and the government. As Lombok seeks to establish itself as a must-visit destination for tourists, locals are left navigating the challenges of modernization while grappling with what it means for their identity and way of life.
If they want to see Bali, they [should] go to Bali, said one concerned tourist, echoing the fears of many who believe in preserving Lombok's unique character amid tourism pressures."
So it should come as little surprise that the Indonesian government has sensed the opportunity to create another lucrative tourist haven on the sprawling archipelago. The mission is to create more Balis - and Lombok will be one of them. For islanders, this promise of Balification is a welcome opportunity but they are also wary of what it brings. The change has already begun to hit home in more ways than one.
Mandalika in the south has been chosen as the heart of the new Bali. Its rustic coastline has already given way to glitzy resorts, cafes, and even a racetrack. Earlier this month, nearly 150,000 spectators showed up to watch the motorcycle Grand Prix. However, this transformation comes with significant costs. Between 2019 and 2021, dozens of families were evicted from their village homes for the construction of the Mandalika circuit. Damar's family was among them.
I was angry, but I cannot do much. I cannot fight against the government, he recalls. Many locals share this sentiment as they weigh the potential economic benefits against the loss of cultural heritage and community ties.
Authorities have invested heavily in Lombok’s infrastructure, but this has also led to conflicts over land rights and exacerbated tensions between the residents and the government. As Lombok seeks to establish itself as a must-visit destination for tourists, locals are left navigating the challenges of modernization while grappling with what it means for their identity and way of life.
If they want to see Bali, they [should] go to Bali, said one concerned tourist, echoing the fears of many who believe in preserving Lombok's unique character amid tourism pressures."
