A Turkish attempt to force kebab shops in the EU to adhere to strict rules on how to make a doner kebab has been withdrawn.
If the bid for a Traditional Speciality Guaranteed label had succeeded, restrictions would have been imposed on the types of ingredients that could be used.
Germany's kebab industry would have particularly skewered, as the quintessential high street doner has evolved over the decades to be rather different than the original from Turkey.
Turkish authorities argued the doner should be viewed as a national dish that spread to Europe through the migration of Turks. However, German officials asserted that its version of the kebab has integrated into their own national cuisine.
The traditional way of cooking meat on a vertical rotisserie dates back to the 16th Century, according to Turkey's International Doner Federation (Udofed), and the name doner relates to that cooking technique.
Udofed sought to impose guidelines requiring that:
- the meat would come from a cow aged over 16 months, lamb aged at least six months, or chicken thighs and breasts
- veal and turkey meat would be banned
- meat would have to be sliced to a thickness of 3-5mm
- the type of knife and marinades would be regulated
The German variant of a kebab often uses veal in a flatbread packed with vegetables, which presents a European take on the classic Turkish dish.
The Turkish federation did not consult Germany's kebab industry, drawing sharp criticism. The German food ministry had expressed surprise at the bid.
Former German food minister Cem Özdemir, of Turkish origin, defended Germany's right to its kebab variations, stating, The doner belongs to Germany.
The withdrawal from Udofed on September 23 was attributed to a high volume of objections and the likelihood of rejection by the EU over ongoing negotiations.
With over 1.5 million Turkish citizens in Germany and a significant kebab industry generating €2.4 billion annually, the implications of stricter guidelines would have had substantial economic and cultural consequences.