The world is experiencing an unprecedented surge in matcha consumption, a finely powdered Japanese green tea known for its vibrant color and unique taste. This trend, largely driven by social media influencers and a post-pandemic tourism boom to Japan, has resulted in a significant upturn in demand, leading retailers and producers to scramble to keep up.
Matcha has recently become a staple in various food and beverage offerings, from lattes at major coffee chains to desserts and sweets. The hashtag "#MatchaTok" on platforms like TikTok has amassed millions of views, turning matcha into a global phenomenon. Lauren Purvis, a tea importer based in the US, noted the alarming rate at which supplies are depleting, reporting that what was once a month’s supply of matcha can now disappear in days.
This escalating popularity, however, has coincided with several adverse factors that threaten production. Heat waves and increasing tariffs imposed by the US on Japanese imports have hindered matcha crops. The Kyoto region, renowned for tencha—the green tea leaves used to make matcha—has witnessed a drastic decline in harvests due to climatic extremes. Adding to the dilemma, Japan is experiencing a shortage of farmers as its aging population makes it difficult to maintain traditional tea production methods.
Retailers in cities lauded for matcha, such as Uji, often find their shelves picked clean soon after opening. Limits have been imposed on the amount of matcha a customer can purchase, with places like Camellia Tea Ceremony allowing just one tin per visitor due to surging demand among tourists.
While the demand for matcha fosters greater awareness and appreciation for Japanese culture, it also raises concerns. The price for premium matcha has surged approximately 30% this year at some establishments, and tea masters express concerns over high-grade matcha being used in cooking or purchased in bulk for resale, diluting its essence. The Global Japanese Tea Association advocates for a shift towards using lower-grade matcha, which is more suitable for recipes and readily available.
Moreover, the recently announced trade deal between the US and Japan, which includes a 15% import tax on Japanese goods, is expected to exacerbate price inflation. Many matcha distributors, including Purvis, are urging for exemptions for specialty tea to reflect the unique nature of the product.
Amid this turmoil, some believe the matcha boom may eventually stabilize. Masahiro Nagata, co-founder of Matcha Tokyo, indicated that while demand is soaring, it is unlikely to sustain its current pace indefinitely, suggesting a potential easing in prices over the next few years.
In this whirlwind of matcha mania, the delicate balance between enjoying this revered beverage and preserving the cultural and environmental integrity of its production remains a pressing conversation for tea enthusiasts and consumers alike.
