A trial currently unfolding in Reims, France, has revealed glaring abuses within the champagne industry, focusing on the exploitation of over 50 seasonal workers primarily from West Africa. The accused includes three individuals—two foreign nationals from Kyrgyzstan and Georgia, along with a Frenchman—charged with human trafficking, leading to broader discussions about labor rights in one of France's most celebrated industries.
The seasonal workers, primarily undocumented migrants aged between 16 and 65, were recruited through a social media message targeting the West African Soninke community in Paris, touting enticing job offers in champagne production. Upon arrival during the September 2023 harvest, they were discovered residing in squalid, overcrowded conditions at a facility in Nesle-le-Repons, a town prominent in champagne production.
Testimonies from the workers expose the harsh realities they endured. One worker, Kanouitié Djakariayou, described the torment of being housed in a “broken-down house” with no basic amenities. The food was inadequate and unhygienic, sparking outrage as workers expressed their disbelief that those producing luxury products like champagne could subject them to subhuman living conditions. Another worker, Doumbia Mamadou, emphasized the psychological toll of their dire situation, highlighting the lack of legal rights and access to support services for undocumented individuals.
Following a tip-off from a concerned local resident, labor inspectors discovered the scandalous living conditions, which state prosecutor Annick Browne described as a serious violation of the workers' safety and dignity. The findings included unsafe living quarters, inadequate sanitary facilities, and excessive work hours with minimal breaks. The prosecution argues that all three accused displayed a blatant disregard for the workers' dignity and rights.
The main accused, Svetlana G., operated a recruitment agency that provided labor for the wine industry and faces multiple charges, including trafficking and failing to secure proper employment conditions for foreign laborers. Should they be convicted, the defendants could receive prison sentences of up to seven years and hefty fines.
This case has raised pertinent concerns about the extent of labor exploitation within the champagne sector, which is valued at approximately €6 billion. Producers depend on around 120,000 seasonal harvesters each autumn, many of whom are recruited through agents. The industry has faced scrutiny in recent years after incidents of maltreatment surfaced, including the tragic deaths of six workers attributed to heatstroke during previous harvests.
Trade unions have voiced the need for legislative changes to hold champagne producers accountable, suggesting that those utilizing illegal labor, directly or indirectly, should be stripped of their champagne labeling. “Harvesting grapes through human misery cannot continue,” asserted Jose Blanco from the CGT union.
In response, the Comité Champagne, the main organization representing champagne producers, acknowledged its role in addressing these issues but emphasized that instances of maltreatment are rare and addressed swiftly upon discovery. The organization is involved in the trial as a civil plaintiff, denouncing the damages inflicted on the champagne brand by these abhorrent practices.
